In this video
- Final install step: connect your solar array to the outdoor unit using the pre-installed MC4 solar whip connectors and the DC isolator
- Plan on roughly 1,500 watts of solar panels on your roof for a one-ton unit, adjusted slightly for your climate
- Extra wattage matters because panel output drops in extreme heat right when the compressor is drawing the most power
- MC4 connectors are male/female and wired in series, so there's no way to connect them incorrectly
- Once everything is plugged in, flip the DC isolator on and the solar hookup is complete
Questions this video answers
How many watts of solar panels do I need for my Airspool mini split?
Plan on around 1,500 watts of solar panels on your roof for a one-ton unit, give or take depending on your climate. Airspool's own Las Vegas test unit uses about 1,520 watts.
Why do I need more solar wattage than the unit actually uses?
In extreme heat, panel output can drop to 1,000-1,100 watts even from a 1,500-watt array, at the same time the compressor needs the most power to keep up with air conditioning demand in hot weather. Sizing the array a bit larger than the unit's baseline draw covers that gap.
Is there a point where adding more solar panels stops helping?
Yes. You can go up to around 2,000 watts, but beyond that you hit diminishing returns, so Airspool recommends sticking with about 1,500 watts of solar for a one-ton unit.
How do I physically connect my solar panels to the Airspool unit?
The outdoor unit comes with solar whip connectors pre-installed that plug into the bottom of the DC isolator. You run your own solar wire from the panels on the roof down to the top of the isolator, then flip the isolator on.
Can I accidentally wire the solar connections backwards?
No. The connections use MC4 connectors, which are male and female and set up in series, so the panels and connection points can only plug together one way. There's no chance for wiring error.
Do I need to design my own solar array layout?
Airspool doesn't dictate the exact panel layout or brand for your roof array. You just need to hit roughly 1,500 watts of solar capacity; how you arrange the panels to get there is up to you.
Transcript
Read the full transcript
After you plug it in and turn the unit on, you can set up the app — that's the same as the standard install. But this next step is where the Quick ’n’ EasyTM really shines: connecting to this DC isolator here. We provide you with solar wire and these solar whips.
The next step is attaching your solar array. You'll build your own array — we don't get into a lot of detail on exactly what you need to do there, but plan on around 1,500 watts of solar panels on your roof, plus or minus depending on where you live. Shoot for 1,500 watts and that will do the job. Here in Las Vegas, the panels we have on our one-ton unit are 1,520 watts.
In July and August, when it's 110 degrees here, those panels are probably only producing maybe 1,000 to 1,100 watts. And in the summertime you get double jeopardy, because the unit's compressor needs a lot more power in the heat of summer than it would in the spring or fall.
The compressor runs harder in winter for heating, obviously, and in summer for air conditioning, more than it does in spring or fall. So the hotter it is, the more power the unit takes — that's why you want a little extra power in your solar array. 1,500 watts is a pretty good amount. You can do 2,000, but at some point you hit diminishing returns. So we recommend 1,500 watts of solar.
This next step uses what's called an MC4 connector. This is the male one — click. This is the female one — click. Right now the isolator is still turned off. Turn it on, and you're done with that step. That's really the final step. Thank you.
