Airspool Installation

So the first step in the quick and easy version of the Airspool unit is going to be straightening out this line set, and that's different than the standard version. In the normal version, you could have line sets be straight and then have them go through a left-hand hole on the wall. All of the quick and easy units are just going to go through the right-hand hole. Okay, so we're going to straighten this out first. We're going to point out a couple of important aspects to this. You'll note the zip tie here that's tied to this condensate line along with this metal pipe strap, and that holds the condensate line in place. And why is that important? Because water doesn't like to flow uphill, so we have it set so that it's going to for sure be flowing downhill. Okay, and also this blue tape... we're going to take that off later. Just leave it on, and keep these plastic covers on because all this is eventually going to go through that two-and-a-half inch hole, and so you don't want any drywall dust getting in these quick connectors. So those covers need to stay on. This blue tape is temporary; it's going to help you get it through more easily. Line sets are made out of copper. They're unforgiving. You need to treat them gingerly. So we're going to support this at the elbow here, and we're going to be slowly, gingerly bending it. Be at one with the line set. If it starts going too fast, you got a problem because that means it's going to be crimping, and you don't want that. So slow and steady for the quick and easy. Okay, we're pretty much there. And you'll notice in addition to the line set and this condensate hose, we have this twist-to-connect communication control wire. All three of these are going to go through the hole in the wall.

Okay, so now we're on the outside of your house. Note these two holes - don't drill this hole for the quick and easy; always drill on the right side from the inside. This is only an option for the standard unit. This plastic was put on here so that these line sets could more easily get through the wall and keep all the drywall dust off of them, but it needs to come off so that you can actually do the connection. All right, these stubs off the indoor unit refrigerant lines are free. You have to remove these two caps. Note that there's a red and a yellow cap. The outdoor unit also has a red and yellow cap, so it's very much foolproof because they only screw in one way. The red from this one goes on the yellow from the other, and vice versa. Keep these on until this stage because you don't want to get dust, dirt, or other debris in these before you're ready to do this step. We provide gloves. You can do these by hand, or you potentially could use a wrench to rotate this bezel. The problem with that is that the quarter-inch line set is very vulnerable to kinking, and you don't want to roughhouse with it using wrenches. So really, it can be done by hand. That's what we recommend, but if you run into challenges, feel free to use a wrench as long as you're holding the other side of it firmly in place. These came through the wall straight, but to easily be connected, they're going to have to be angled a little bit. Create a fulcrum with your hand - you never bend a line set, you massage the line set slowly around a fulcrum. Now it's at a good position to connect. We're starting out with the quarter-inch line. All you do is screw them together. One advantage of these is they're steel, so they can't be cross-threaded like you would with a copper connector. That's often a problem with people attempting to DIY; if it's not lined up just right, that creates a refrigerant leak. These are leak-proof. The whole connection of the quick and easy can be done in less than five minutes. Try to get in here a little bit, and you'll see there's a black O-ring in here. You want to make sure to screw this in all the way up to that black ring. That's not needed for the seal, but it's a dust ring to keep out dust, pollen, and debris. Now, onto the three-quarter-inch one. It works the same way except it's opposite, so it's foolproof. You don't have to worry about matching the quarter-inch to the 3/8-inch. A couple of advantages of these quick connectors: you'll notice we're only having to connect this in one spot. Competitive Quick Connect solutions require tools, need to be connected in two spots, and can't always be disconnected. You can move your unit wherever you want, take these on and off many times, and there's no issue with the seals. The inside is now connected with the outside, and the refrigerant can flow. There's nothing else you have to do. On a standard unit, you'd have to open valves, but on this unit, everything's already open. You just made the connection and turned everything on.

Okay, so remember this communication control wire? This was actually the first thing that came through the wall. Now we're going to connect this. What this does is it connects the outside unit to the inside unit. The inside unit actually gets its power from the outside unit, so you don't need a separate plug for the inside unit. There's a printed circuit board in here that communicates with the inside unit, basically telling the inside unit what to do. If you look at the standard install, there's a lot going on behind this panel in terms of the wiring that was required... we've done all that for you. All you need to do is plug it in. It will only go in one way, as one of these pins is longer than the other ones. Just keep twisting until it inherently goes forward, and then on the black ring here, twist that, and it's connected. This step is done.

So after you plug it in, turn the unit on, you can get the app set up. That's the same as the standard install. But this next step, we provide you with a DC disconnect, solar wire, and these solar whips. To attach the solar, you're going to do your own array. We recommend having around 1,500 watts of solar panels on your roof, plus or minus depending on where you live. For example, in Las Vegas, in July and August when it's 110 degrees, they're probably only producing maybe 1,000 watts. The compressor runs harder in the heat of the summer and the cold of the winter, so it takes more power. That's why you want to add a little bit of extra power to your solar array, but at some point, you hit diminishing returns, so 1500 watts is a good amount. This next step involves the MC4 connector. It's a simple male to female click. Turn the disconnect on, and you're done with that step. That's really the final step.