The whole install, start to finish.
Eight short videos and the manual for every model. Most first-timers finish in 2-4 hours — the only tool you supply is a drill. And if you get stuck mid-install, call or text (725) 699-1200 and the people who built your unit will walk you through it. Still deciding whether to do it yourself? Start with what a DIY mini split install really involves.
01On camera
Watch the whole thing before you drill.
Eight short steps, in order. Every video has a written transcript if you'd rather read.
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Straightening the refrigerant line stubs
How to straighten the refrigerant line stubs on the indoor unit without crimping them, preparing for a right-hand hole installation.
Read the transcript
So the first step in the quick and easy version of the Airspool unit is going to be straightening out this line set, and that's different than the standard version. In the normal version, you could have line sets be straight and then have them go through a left-hand hole on the wall. All of the quick and easy units are just going to go through the right-hand hole. Okay, so we're going to straighten this out first. We're going to point out a couple of important aspects to this. You'll note the zip tie here that's tied to this condensate line along with this metal pipe strap, and that holds the condensate line in place. And why is that important? Because water doesn't like to flow uphill, so we have it set so that it's going to for sure be flowing downhill. Okay, and also this blue tape... we're going to take that off later. Just leave it on, and keep these plastic covers on because all this is eventually going to go through that two-and-a-half inch hole, and so you don't want any drywall dust getting in these quick connectors. So those covers need to stay on. This blue tape is temporary; it's going to help you get it through more easily. Line sets are made out of copper. They're unforgiving. You need to treat them gingerly. So we're going to support this at the elbow here, and we're going to be slowly, gingerly bending it. Be at one with the line set. If it starts going too fast, you got a problem because that means it's going to be crimping, and you don't want that. So slow and steady for the quick and easy. Okay, we're pretty much there. And you'll notice in addition to the line set and this condensate hose, we have this twist-to-connect communication control wire. All three of these are going to go through the hole in the wall.
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Mounting the indoor unit to the wall
How to lift the indoor unit onto the wall bracket and guide the condensate hose, control wire, and line set through the right-hand wall opening.
Read the transcript
So the next step, mounting this inside unit up on this wall, is a little tricky. Why? Because we call it a DIY unit, but really, you might want to have two people because it's a bit of weight - about 25 pounds. You have to have the condensate hose, communication cord, and the line set extenders all go through that one little hole. Refer to the standard version of the Airspool install or refer to your instruction manual to see how this mounts. You'll see two holes here. Forget you saw the left-hand one, why? Because that one's for a standard version where you have an option to go left or right. All of our quick and easy versions are going to go through the right-hand hole here. Okay, and then you'll see these four tabs on the bracket, and then on the back of the indoor unit here, there are two grooves and two tabs that mount to the bottom two tabs. So a little tricky, wish me luck. Not everybody has a partner, so yeah, feel free to have a friend help you. First, we'll put in the communication control wire, and this whole assembly obviously goes through the wall to the outside. Next, the line set. And remember, once this is all said and done, you always need the condensate hose to be on the bottom, because if it's twisted around the line set, water again doesn't like to flow uphill. Keep it on the bottom section. Okay, everything looks pretty good there, the condensate hose is on the bottom. Now you'll see some little triangles here; those should be right at the center of your tabs. They not only help line up things now, but if you ever want to release the indoor unit off the wall, push on those and the bottom clip tabs will release. Voila!
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Connecting the refrigerant lines
The outdoor-side quick-connect refrigerant hookup: removing the caps, matching the color-coded fittings, and tightening them correctly.
Read the transcript
Okay, so now we're on the outside of your house. Note these two holes - don't drill this hole for the quick and easy; always drill on the right side from the inside. This is only an option for the standard unit. This plastic was put on here so that these line sets could more easily get through the wall and keep all the drywall dust off of them, but it needs to come off so that you can actually do the connection. All right, these stubs off the indoor unit refrigerant lines are free. You have to remove these two caps. Note that there's a red and a yellow cap. The outdoor unit also has a red and yellow cap, so it's very much foolproof because they only screw in one way. The red from this one goes on the yellow from the other, and vice versa. Keep these on until this stage because you don't want to get dust, dirt, or other debris in these before you're ready to do this step. We provide gloves. You can do these by hand, or you potentially could use a wrench to rotate this bezel. The problem with that is that the quarter-inch line set is very vulnerable to kinking, and you don't want to roughhouse with it using wrenches. So really, it can be done by hand. That's what we recommend, but if you run into challenges, feel free to use a wrench as long as you're holding the other side of it firmly in place. These came through the wall straight, but to easily be connected, they're going to have to be angled a little bit. Create a fulcrum with your hand - you never bend a line set, you massage the line set slowly around a fulcrum. Now it's at a good position to connect. We're starting out with the quarter-inch line. All you do is screw them together. One advantage of these is they're steel, so they can't be cross-threaded like you would with a copper connector. That's often a problem with people attempting to DIY; if it's not lined up just right, that creates a refrigerant leak. These are leak-proof. The whole connection of the quick and easy can be done in less than five minutes. Try to get in here a little bit, and you'll see there's a black O-ring in here. You want to make sure to screw this in all the way up to that black ring. That's not needed for the seal, but it's a dust ring to keep out dust, pollen, and debris. Now, onto the three-quarter-inch one. It works the same way except it's opposite, so it's foolproof. You don't have to worry about matching the quarter-inch to the 3/8-inch. A couple of advantages of these quick connectors: you'll notice we're only having to connect this in one spot. Competitive Quick Connect solutions require tools, need to be connected in two spots, and can't always be disconnected. You can move your unit wherever you want, take these on and off many times, and there's no issue with the seals. The inside is now connected with the outside, and the refrigerant can flow. There's nothing else you have to do. On a standard unit, you'd have to open valves, but on this unit, everything's already open. You just made the connection and turned everything on.
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Shaping the exterior line set run
How to gently massage the line set against the outside wall, keep the condensate hose underneath, and prepare the run for a clean finished install.
Read the transcript
Next step here, we're going to get this line set against the wall. You'll see it's about a sloping 90-degree angle, so we need about four feet here of straight line set. We're going to straighten this out ever so gently. This part is going to go against the wall, and now we have to bend this down. Remember this condensate line here, you don't want it twisted; you want it to be below your refrigerant lines. That way, it's going to make sure the water flows out. Condensation happens as part of the refrigeration process, the same way a cold drink sweats on a humid day. Put your hand near the wall, ever so gingerly, and massage the line set. This is ugly right now, but you put a line set cover on it, and you can massage this any way you need to. The compressor acts as a pump that will move the refrigerant through there. You probably want to get some one-hole clamps to clamp this so the condensate flows to a predictable place where it won't be harming anything. You can pretty this up however you want, but this step is done.
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Connecting the communication control wire
Plugging in the pre-wired communication cable that links the outdoor unit to the indoor unit and locks in with a simple twist ring.
Read the transcript
Okay, so remember this communication control wire? This was actually the first thing that came through the wall. Now we're going to connect this. What this does is it connects the outside unit to the inside unit. The inside unit actually gets its power from the outside unit, so you don't need a separate plug for the inside unit. There's a printed circuit board in here that communicates with the inside unit, basically telling the inside unit what to do. If you look at the standard install, there's a lot going on behind this panel in terms of the wiring that was required... we've done all that for you. All you need to do is plug it in. It will only go in one way, as one of these pins is longer than the other ones. Just keep twisting until it inherently goes forward, and then on the black ring here, twist that, and it's connected. This step is done.
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Connecting the electrical cord
How the pre-installed power cord routes into the outdoor unit so you can remove the slack, use the knockout, and finish the electrical connection cleanly.
Read the transcript
So this seems like a simple enough device; it's called an electrical cord. Right now, most mini split units you buy don't even come with an electrical cord, let alone being pre-wired into the outdoor unit. We've taken care of that for you. You don't have to go buy a cord, you don't need to know how many amps the cord needs to be, you don't need to strip the cord, you don't need to connect the cord, and you don't need to know line versus neutral versus ground. That part's done for you! Actually, you're going to want to take out the slack because there's a knockout here that should be taken out, but once that knockout is done, it's over.
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Connecting the solar array
The final solar hookup using the included DC disconnect, solar wire, and MC4 connectors so the unit can start prioritizing sunlight.
Read the transcript
So after you plug it in, turn the unit on, you can get the app set up. That's the same as the standard install. But this next step, we provide you with a DC disconnect, solar wire, and these solar whips. To attach the solar, you're going to do your own array. We recommend having around 1,500 watts of solar panels on your roof, plus or minus depending on where you live. For example, in Las Vegas, in July and August when it's 110 degrees, they're probably only producing maybe 1,000 watts. The compressor runs harder in the heat of the summer and the cold of the winter, so it takes more power. That's why you want to add a little bit of extra power to your solar array, but at some point, you hit diminishing returns, so 1500 watts is a good amount. This next step involves the MC4 connector. It's a simple male to female click. Turn the disconnect on, and you're done with that step. That's really the final step.
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The wrap-up
The full Quick ’n’ EasyTM process in one final overview: refrigerant twist-connects, control wire, electrical cord, and solar hookup.
Read the transcript
So, the summary notes for this project... you might have noticed for this quick and easy system: twist to connect the refrigerant lines, twist to connect the communication control wire, push your electrical connection in, and snap and turn to connect your solar array. It's just that simple for this quick and easy system! It saves you a lot of time, a lot of anxiety, a lot of effort, and potentially a lot of money. Thank you.
02The window unit
Got the WS12? One video covers it.
No line sets, no brackets, no hole in the wall. Set it in the window, plug it in, connect the panels and the app.
Installing the WS12 window unit
The whole window-unit install, start to finish — setting the unit in the window, connecting the solar panels, and pairing the app.
03On paper
The manual for your model.
Every unit ships with a printed copy. The 24K and 36K systems use the 12K base manual plus a short model-specific insert.
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MS12 Signature
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MS24 SignatureMS12 Base Manual for MS24 (PDF)MS24 Insert (PDF)
Why an MS12 manual? The Quick ’n’ EasyTM install is identical on every unit — same mounting, same twist connections, same startup. Everything that's different about the MS24 is in its insert below.
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HS12 SuperHeat
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HS24 SuperHeatHS12 Base Manual for HS24 (PDF)HS24 Insert (PDF)
Why an HS12 manual? The Quick ’n’ EasyTM install is identical on every unit — same mounting, same twist connections, same startup. Everything that's different about the HS24 is in its insert below.
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MU24 Multi-HeadMS12 Base Manual for MU24 (PDF)MU24 Insert (PDF)
Why an MS12 manual? The Quick ’n’ EasyTM install is identical on every unit — same mounting, same twist connections, same startup. Everything that's different about the MU24 is in its insert below.
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MU36 Multi-HeadMS12 Base Manual for MU36 (PDF)MU36 Insert (PDF)
Why an MS12 manual? The Quick ’n’ EasyTM install is identical on every unit — same mounting, same twist connections, same startup. Everything that's different about the MU36 is in its insert below.
The WS12 window unit doesn't need any of this — it sits in a window like any window AC. Watch its one install video above.